Pommes Dauphine - Fernand Point's 3-Michelin Star "Tater Tots"
ABOUT THIS BRAIN
Historic recipe from Fernand Point (1897-1955), first chef to hold three Michelin stars (1933 at La Pyramide restaurant). Published posthumously by his wife to preserve his culinary legacy. Elevated potato-choux pastry hybrid, lighter than American tater tots.
TECHNIQUES
KEY PRINCIPLES (14)
Robot coupe (food processor) assembly
"Us uh us modern day chefs don't have the wrist strength" - "Whack in a robo coop and bring this batter together" - Historic chefs did by hand
"Us uh us modern day chefs don't have the wrist strength"
Butter + water foundation** brought to boil first - Classic choux technique - "Foundations for a shoe [choux] pastry" 2. **Strong glutenous flour** requirement - "You want like, you know, strong strong glutenous flour" - High protein for structure 3. **Cook flour in butter/water
"Cook out the flour slightly" - Removes raw flour taste - Activates starch gelatinization
"Cook out the flour slightly"
Vigorous working develops gluten
"Really work the dough once you've added all that flour" - "Really, really want to get that gluten working" - "Get a really nice smooth homogeneous base to your shoe [choux]"
"Really work the dough once you've added all that flour"
Off-heat egg incorporation** (prevents scrambling) - "Turned this off now, which is important because you want the shoe [choux] just to lightly cool down a little bit" - "If you did it in the pot, then there's a chance that your eggs can scramble a little bit. So, I just do that outside" 6. **Two eggs for choux
"They're going to add a real nice richness to the dough" - "They make it puff...they give it this wonderfully light consistency"
"They're going to add a real nice richness to the dough"
Patience during egg incorporation
"Be patient. It'll just start to slowly slowly come together" - Work with back of rice spoon - Consistency will "completely change"
"Be patient. It'll just start to slowly slowly come together"
Agria potato selection** = critical variety choice - "Perfect for this because they don't have a great amount of moisture inside" - "High starch potato with low sugar" - "Going to crisp up really really nicely cuz they've not got a lot of loose sugar" - Low sugar = no premature browning/burning 9. **Salt bed baking** for moisture removal - Cook whole potatoes on bed of salt - "Main focus here is drawing out as much moisture from that potato as possible" - Salt is "excessive amount...just to bake a couple of spuds" but necessary 10. **Natural golden color** from Agria variety - "They already have like quite a nice beautiful golden color" - Not from added ingredients 11. **Process while warm** (not cold) - "Potatoes still warm. Really important" - "Otherwise the batter and the dough will get way too thick and it's quite hard to handle" 12. **Halve before passing** through sieve - "Chop your potatoes in half" - Easier processing 13. **Fine sieve/Tammy cloth processing
"Push them for a regular sieve. You can use a Tammy sieve if you've got it" - "Anything that you've got at your home will also do the job" - Creates smooth, lump-free potato
"Push them for a regular sieve. You can use a Tammy sieve if you've got it"
Already "quite golden" from salt roasting
Visual indicator of proper technique - "That's the thing about an agria potato"
"That's the thing about an agria potato"
1kg potato : 300g pâte à choux ratio
**Chef Quote:** "Fernand Pont's ratio that he uses when he's making this is roughly a kilo of potato mix to 300 g of pate shoe" - ~77% potato, ~23% choux - "Quite a high potato ratio" vs other versions
"Fernand Pont's ratio that he uses when he's making this is roughly a kilo of potato mix to 300 g of pate shoe"
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